Our program includes our season-long balanced, slow-release fertilizers, crabgrass control and broadleaf weed control throughout the season. A free second application of crabgrass control and a free surface insect control is included with the purchase of our full lawn care program. Offer expires May 31.

Treatments tend to run every 5-6 weeks apart.

Lawns should be watered at least 1 inch per week. This can increase during hotter summers.

Cool season grasses should be mowed at 2 ½ to 3 inches. Never mow more than 1/3 of the grass blade.

There are many options on the market today that can assist in removing Moles.

Each application may vary, our Lawn Professional will always advise on how long to stay off the lawn at the time of visit.

Too much rain can have a negative impact on the application. Light rain fall is beneficial in moving the product into the soil.

Since there are millions of weed seeds in an average lawn, it is not uncommon that dandelions can germinate in between visits. Dandelions are not prevented, we can only control them when they are actively growing.

There are currently no effective organic weed control products on the market.

In many cases this could be a sign of grubs. However, worms and other insects can attract birds and skunks. We inspect your lawn carefully at the time of each treatment for grubs and other potential problems. For the best control of grubs, we recommend our grub control treatment.

One common problem is a dull mower blade. Be sure to check for shredded tips of grass blades. Grass blades are composed of 98% water. When you mow more than 1/3 off the grass blade it can put added stress onto the turf plant. We recommend if you see this to water after mowing the lawn. Mowing the lawn during the hottest part of the day can also contribute to discoloration.

Depending on the time of year, this can be Red Thread or even Pink Snow Mold in the lawn. These are both cosmetic diseases then tend to grow out on their own.

Our products are only utilized by the top 4” of your soil. Most wells are several hundred feet deep, so you have nothing to worry about. A healthy, robust lawn is second only to a forest soil in its ability to filter out natural pollutants from the environment before they can make it to the aquifer. Our lawn care program will enhance the amount of pollutants that are filtered, not the opposite.

A thick healthy lawn acts as a filter to preserve and enhance the quality of surface and ground water. It also will help prevent soil erosion.

24 hours after any application.

The pelletized fertilizer will not disturb the mower.

As long as you are never mowing more than 1/3 of the grass blade it is recommended to mulch them back into the lawn. This provides free nutrients back into the lawn. On occasion you may want to bag your clippings, for instance if the grass got really long between mowing. If there is disease present in the turf, removing the clippings may help to reduce the spread of some diseases.

No, however I would recommend applying a Grub Prevention as the chances of having grubs greatly increases with the presence of Japanese Beetles.

Excessive shade, poor water, and poor air circulation are the primary factors causing moss growth.

If thatch exceeds ½ inch, we recommend either Core Aeration or Dethatching. These should be done around September.

Growing grass directly under trees can be very difficult. Lack of sunlight and a shallow root system prevent the grass plant from establishing itself.

Forsythias bloom by air temperature and sunlight, while crabgrass germination is based solely on soil temperature. At 55 degree soil temperatures, we will see crabgrass start to germinate.